![]() ![]() I discovered a big problem with my Schaudt EBL 264, centred around the fridge 12 volt control systems having been shorted out in former ownership and a none too professional job made of getting round it. OThank you for publishing your article – but oooohhh, how I wish I’d seen it a year ago!! I’m pleased with the outcome and it’s a saving of many hundreds of pounds over a new Elektroblock! Let me know what you think – is it a good idea?, have I missed anything? Also, let me know if you want a copy of the schematic – I’m happy to share it.įound this information useful? – Want to support Motor-Roam? In case you want to create something similar yourself, here is a bill of materials – total cost £105.66 (note – the piece of wood and a few small lengths of different colour wire are from stock I had lying around, so aren’t included in the BoM, I also haven’t included the charger in the BoM as you can pretty much use any charger you like as long as it is designed to be permanently connected to a battery – I ended up using a CTEK unit) The new system works perfectly, with the added bonus that the solar regulator can now charge both the starter and habitation batteries. Here is the new system connected to the wiring in the motorhome and ready for final installationĪnd the final installation inside the original Elektroblock cupboard:. Here is a top view of the fuse & relay box with the lid removed, showing the fuses and relays in place:. This is it all terminated and ready to go:. Next job was to add all the pins and sockets for four main Mate-n-lok connectors:. To protect these circuits I added inline fuses holders to the wiring to the panel connector with 800mA glass fuses:. In the original motorhome wiring the starter battery sense line and the two shunt sense lines are directly connected to batteries and fused at 30A – too high for the wiring to the panel. For the panel connector I could only find the mating half in a PCB mount version, so I soldered it onto a piece of prototyping board and added an 8-way PCB mount screw terminal connector to wire it up:. Next job was to start terminating the plugs. The flyback diode for the finder relay is connected to the coil terminals (top and bottom of the relay) and lay down the left side of the relay itself The flyback diodes for the relays in the fusebox are connected directly to the coil terminals – you can see them here in the fusebox wiring:. Here is the board with all the wiring added, ready for the plugs to be terminated:. Here is the fusebox, finder relay and shunt mounted up and the first bits of wiring connected:. The fuse box and shunt are screwed directly to this board, and a din rail is added to hold the Finder relay and some DIN rail mount distribution blocks for the various circuits. Flyback diodes for the relays, and a diode to prevent the leisure batteries from back-feeding the alternatorįor easy access I opted to mount all the distibution components to a wooden board that will go above the charger unit in the cupboard.Connection points for the 12V feed from the charger.Plugs to connect to the original motorhome wiring (1x input mate-n-lok, 2x output mate-n-lok, 1x solar connection mate-n-lok, 1x 8-way panel connector).A shunt to measure the current going in/out of the leisure battery, to drive the ammeter on the control panel.12V systems relay (to turn the 12V supplies on when switched on from the control panel).Relay for the fridge (to power the fridge from 12V when the engine is running).Relay for split charge (to charge the leisure batteries when the engine is running). ![]() This is the schematic for the new system:. Next step was to design a distribution and fusing system to handle the rest of the Elektroblock functions, based on the original schematics for the EBL 4-105. Adding some 90 degree metal angles to the sides of the new charger allows it to slot into the exiting channels ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |